Where Ancient Walls Meet Sardinian Wine: Calici in Tonnara Returns to Portoscuso
There are places in Sardinia where history doesn't just exist in museum corridors — it breathes through crumbling stone walls, in the salt-tinged air and in the quiet rituals of people who still live close to the sea. The Tonnara Su Pranu in Portoscuso is one of those places. And every summer, for a few extraordinary days, it transforms into the island's most evocative wine festival: Calici in Tonnara.
Now in its seventh edition, this gathering is not a trade fair or a simple tasting event. It is a deliberate act of cultural memory — a place where Sardinian winemakers bring their bottles to the same shores where generations of fishermen once hauled in their nets, and where the conversation around a glass goes far deeper than vintage and terroir.
A Stage Like No Other
The festival is set against the ruins of an ancient tuna fishing facility — the tonnara — whose industrial past gives the event a raw, almost theatrical quality. The weathered stone of Tonnara Su Pranu, with its proximity to the Sulcis coast, provides a backdrop that no purpose-built events venue could replicate. It is the kind of place where the weight of the past sharpens your senses, and where a glass of Carignano del Sulcis tastes, somehow, more itself.
The 2026 edition is scheduled for July 3, 4, and 5, continuing the tradition of three evenings that blend culture, gastronomy, and music into a single, seamless experience.
The Wine at the Centre
The soul of Calici in Tonnara is, undeniably, the wine. Past editions have brought together over 40 Sardinian producers— from internationally recognised names to small, family-run estates that rarely appear on the mainland radar. Winemakers, enologists, and commercial directors stand at their tables personally, ready to talk about their vineyards, their methods, and the stories behind the labels.
This is a rare opportunity to engage directly with the people who shape Sardinian viticulture. From the deep, mineral-driven reds of Carignano del Sulcis to the amber-gold of Vermentino and the ancient Nuragus grape, the island's wine map is extraordinarily diverse — and this festival offers one of the most concentrated ways to explore it.
Previous editions have also opened the floor to producers from other Italian regions, a move that frames Sardinian wine not as a local curiosity but as a voice within a broader national dialogue.
Beyond the Glass
What elevates Calici in Tonnara above most wine events is its refusal to isolate wine from its cultural context. The table here is always shared.
Renowned chefs, including names like Cristiano Rosso, Pierluigi Fais, and Nicola Paulis, have crafted menus built around red tuna from the local tonnare of the Sulcis — a product with an IGP designation and a history as old as the coastal communities themselves. The pairing of this ingredient with Sulcis wines is not a marketing exercise; it is a genuine expression of place.
The festival has also introduced dedicated Masterclasses — workshops and guided tastings led by sommeliers and industry experts — offering visitors a structured way to deepen their understanding of what makes Sardinian viticulture so distinct. These sessions have become a valuable draw for professionals in hospitality and gastronomy, with a dedicated press and operator accreditation pathway.
Music, Community, and a Walk Through History
Each evening comes alive with live concerts and DJ sets, creating an atmosphere where the line between cultural event and genuine celebration becomes pleasantly blurred. The festival has a tradition of opening with a noted public figure as madrina — television presenter Tessa Gelisio has fulfilled this role across multiple editions — who sets the tone for what follows.
One of the most thoughtful additions in recent years has been the inclusion of a guided hike along the Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara — a pilgrimage and trekking route that connects the industrial and natural heritage of the Sulcis-Iglesiente region. It is a detail that speaks to the festival's wider ambition: this is not just an evening out; it is an invitation to understand the territory.
Why It Matters for Cagliari
Portoscuso sits roughly an hour from Cagliari — close enough for a day trip, significant enough to feel like a proper journey. And Calici in Tonnara is exactly the kind of event worth making that journey for.
In a landscape where Sardinian culture is sometimes flattened into postcard clichés, this festival does something more honest: it puts producers and community at the centre, it uses a historically resonant space, and it asks visitors to slow down and pay attention. The wine is the medium, but the message is about identity, continuity, and a quiet pride in what this island produces.
Whether you are a serious wine enthusiast, a curious visitor, or simply someone who appreciates a well-chosen glass against a backdrop of ancient stone and sea air — Calici in Tonnara offers an experience that is, in the truest sense, irreplaceable.
What: Calici in Tonnara – 7th Edition
Where: Tonnara Su Pranu, Portoscuso (Sulcis Iglesiente)
When: July 3–5, 2026
Info & Tickets: caliciintonnara.it
Sources: caliciintonnara.it, lestradedelvino.com, sardegnatuttolanno.net, laprovinciadelsulcisiglesiente.com, instagram.com/caliciintonnara
